In the maze of the old medina
As one passes through Casablanca’s majestic «Bab Marrakech» gate, the tidy city life of the economic capital’s city center seems to slip away into an alternative universe, all the more enchanting for it. It is time to explore the alleys and souks of the medina, which may be smaller than those of other major cities in the country, but are no less iconic and hard not to find what you’re looking for.
After a few hundred meters, covered by the offensive cries of merchants desperate to sell, the other side of the medina comes into view. It is hard for a neophyte to find his way around. But isn’t the charm of the medina also to be found in this total unknown? It is a pleasure to wander in these narrow streets, which branch off again and again in sometimes almost incoherent directions… « I know the medina like the back of my hand. I know the medina like the back of my hand, I could find my way around it with my eyes closed,» , says a smiling Youssef, a local resident for over 30 years, who kindly guides French visitors lost in the vastness of the medina. All one’s senses are tantalized! Mouth-watering aromas waft from the fried fish stalls. A traditional music band moves through the crowd, letting out a few scattered notes. Despite the human bustle that mingles in these narrow streets, a surprising sense of serenity pervades. No doubt the impressive concentration of spiritual sites has something to do with it.
In the same alleyway, you’ll find a mosque, a synagogue, and a church. Casablanca’s old medina is a symbol of religious cohabitation, and has been since its creation, proof of the tolerance between monotheistic religions, which makes the place all the more moving when one knows that in other nations lives are lost in the name of these same religions. In the medina, it would seem that another passion has almost reached the status of religion: soccer. For any European with even the slightest love of football, the passion Moroccans feel for the sport is enough to bring a tear to the eye. Here, the Wydad Casablanca club reigns supreme, which explains why the streets are slightly less crowded than usual. This is because the cafés are full, as a match is taking place. And it is not just any match! Wydad take on their sworn enemy: Raja, the other team from Casablanca. The cafés were practically packed, even though the fervor of the big days was not felt. With Wydad no longer in contention for the title, there was little at stake. There was even some applause for Raja’s stoppage-time goal, which sealed Wydad’s fate. In the opinion of a café owner, it was mainly a protest against Wydad’s disastrous season, «one of the worst in its history».
Time to be on the road again. The crossing continues by the sea. As we pass, we catch a glimpse of the superb Sqala, the neighborhood’s iconic restaurant, a popular spot with tourists and locals alike. The walk ends facing the sea, next to the canons that line the bay, once used to defend the Casablanca medina from the fearsome privateers from the city of Salé, based about 92 kilometers away.
Omerta, the code of silence
Don’t mess with the winners «Omerta»… You’d think you were entering a war zone when you see all these blood-red inscriptions scattered across the walls of the Medina. But all these frescoes are not the work of a gang, but rather of the Wydad ultras, the most passionate fans, ready to do anything for their club. The group is called «The Winners», and their fame is far from being confined to Morocco! They enjoy an international reputation, and have been voted the best ultra group in the world many times over! The Winners are traditionally rooted in Casablanca’s medina, although they can be found all over the white city. In fact, it is on Rue des Cols Bleus in the old medina that you’ll find the house where Mohamed Benjelloun Touimi, the club’s founder, lived. More than 20 years after his death, he continues to watch over the red team.
History of the old medina
Centuries before the birth of Casablanca, the medina was already inhabited. At the time, this large area was called Anfa, and its proximity to the sea made it an ideal place for fishermen and privateers. This was around the 12th century. The medina was gradually built up, before tragedy struck. In 1755, it was levelled by an earthquake. The medina had to be completely rebuilt, under the impetus of Sultan Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah, making it much more modern than other Moroccan cities, such as Fez or Marrakech. This hybrid aspect gives it an aura that is unique in Morocco, making it a must-see for anyone curious about the Kingdom, while still remaining a traditional city steeped in history.
Mathieu OZANNE
